A cultural guide to Mumbai
Combining ancient marvels, buzzing bazaars and an exciting contemporary art scene, this multi-faceted Indian metropolis is in constant evolution—and won’t fail to excite
Your essential guide to the best things to see and do in Mumbai. Find more travel inspiration for more amazing cities here.
Cosmopolitan Mumbai is unlike any other city in India. From architecture and shopping to food and art, history and modernity often sit side by side, and vestiges of India’s colonial past show themselves in countless facets of daily life, from animated cricket games to ornate Victorian facades.
Originally, the city was made up of seven islands, which weren’t connected until the 1840s. Via periods of Portuguese and then British rule (during which it was named Bombay), it became one of the most important trading hubs in the world before India gained independence in 1947. It was also a textile production capital until the 1980s—now the techniques which originated here are rarified and valuable (outlets like the Chanakya School of Craft are commissioned by European couture houses to create exquisite embroideries).
Today, Mumbai is a sprawling city and a business hub, with 21 million metro-area residents. Even a quick visit to the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus train station in rush hour will quickly dizzy the uninitiated—it serves some three million passengers per day. That said, there are plenty of places in which to experience the city’s quieter side—whether you’re visiting for a short time, or truly immersing yourself in one of the world’s great megacities.
Immerse yourself in India’s Diwali
Art & architecture
Mumbai boasts a pair of heritage monuments sure to impress visitors: the Gateway of India arch and the Elephanta Caves (accessible via boat; tours depart from near the arch). In the tourist-friendly Colaba neighborhood, you’ll also find the iconic Taj Majal Palace hotel, colorful market stalls lining Colaba Causeway, world-class museums, and more.
Away from the tourist trail, make time to visit some of the city’s famously good contemporary art galleries. The Jehangir Art Gallery is the best place to discover the next big thing in Indian art; recent exhibitions have included showcases for graduates of The Bombay Art Society. Spots like Galerie Mirchandani + Steinruecke, and Akara Modern show a mix of emerging Indian artists and global names. Exhibitions in this city move fast—great shows can last just a fortnight—so make sure that you research and plan ahead around your dates.
The stories of Bombay’s residents can be further explored in the permanent collection at Mumbai’s oldest museum, the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum. The museum’s ornate Industrial Arts Gallery space is dedicated to local decorative arts and is a showcase of the breadth of skills and techniques that originated here.
Food & drink
The flavors in Mumbai’s food tell the long story of the city’s heritage and are completely different to those found in other Indian states. From the historical Bombay spice traders to the street-food vendors and the Irani café culture that thrived in the 1960s, the hospitality scene in this city has always been vibrant, socially mixed and constantly evolving.
Many eateries here are storied establishments, offering the sort of meals, decor and ambience you’ll tell friends about for years to come. The Leopold Café, founded in 1871, is one of the most famous Irani cafés in Mumbai—you can’t book in advance, and it’s always heaving, so you’ll just need to show up and be ready to order the chili chicken.
Even the ice-cream parlors are landmarks in Mumbai. Bachelorr’s in Chowpatty was established in 1930 and serves dessert until 1 a.m. daily. Try the sitafal masti (custard apple) flavor. Meanwhile, the menu at Trishna, founded in Fort in 1991, has inspired countless upscale Indian restaurants in western cities. (Order the chicken hariyali cooked in spicy green masala for a fresh twist on a dish you thought you knew.)
For modern city dining, visit Masque. Chef Varun Totlani puts a spin on yet more classics (think pandi curry with jackfruit sausage), all set in an impressive former textile mill.
Shopping
Shopping options in this city are diverse. At one end of the spectrum, you have the extraordinarily luxurious experience of the recently opened Jio World Plaza to the north of the city. The mega mall rivals the best in the world, with stores from all the top European luxury brands.
For an entirely different experience, browse the aisles of the Chor Bazaar flea market in the Grant Road district. Roughly translating to “Thieves’ Market” (a name that’s now outdated, but still lingers on), this is your place to haggle hard for antiques, artworks, textiles, Bollywood movie posters, and even chandeliers.
The Colaba Causeway street market is good for clothes, and Mangaldas Market for wholesale fabrics, should you wish to get something custom made or just buy lengths of material to take home. Lalbaug Spice Market, meanwhile, is Mumbai’s largest spice haven, where spices are not only sold but also roasted and ground on-site (it’s worth visiting for the aromas alone).
There is also a buzzing scene of independent fashion boutiques: ENSEMBLE is renowned for its edit of Indian contemporary designers, including the co-founder’s own label, Tarun Tahiliani. Nearby, D7 and Bombay Shirt Company are both worth exploring. Nicobar is one final must-visit lifestyle emporium—buy crisp cotton clothes and bed linens all in one chic store. Visit the adjoining coffee shop for an oat and flax roti on your way out.
As seen on screen
Hollywood might be the world’s oldest film industry, but Bollywood is its most prolific, producing almost 2,000 films each year. To experience it, book a tour of Film City, or if you have a decent amount of time to spare, sign up to be a movie extra. In terms of places featured in films, walking the streets of Mumbai will yield familiar sights like Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus train station and the high-rises of Juhu, as seen in the 2008 Danny Boyle hit Slumdog Millionaire; or you’ll likely recognize the Taj Mahal Palace from the Anthony Maras-directed Hotel Mumbai, as well as from countless other Bollywood-produced movies.
Stay in Colaba for easy access to major attractions such as Gateway of India, boats to Elephanta Caves, museums, gardens, and shops such as Design Temple, a gallery for contemporary art with an enviable gift shop. The Taj Mahal Palace, with its view of the iconic arch landmark, enjoys a reputation as one of the best hotels in the whole country—don’t miss the exceptional high tea in the Sea Lounge. In one of the busiest parts of the city, it feels like an genteel oasis.
Set in the heart of the city’s central business district at the end of iconic Marine Drive, The Oberoi, Mumbai boasts some of the best skyline and sea views. Choose whether you’d prefer to be oceanside or look out at the Queen’s Necklace (as Marine Drive is colloquially known, thanks to the city lights lining the waterfront). During the day, walk or jog along its palm-lined promenade.
Up the coastline, Juhu Chowpatty Beach has long served as a lively social center, where you can pick up a snack from one of the area’s famous street vendors and settle in to watch the cricket players, or just watch the sun set over the Arabian Sea. The area has become even more of a hot spot with Soho House opening in 2018 and other venues setting up. A stay at Novotel Mumbai, Juhu will place you in the heart of the stylish beach scene.
Caroline Leaper is a fashion writer, and senior fashion editor at The Daily Telegraph. She has visited 40 countries, and particularly loves discovering stylish cities with rich art scenes and unique shopping spots.
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