By Jonathan Thompson
April 2024
Soon to unseat Chicago as America’s third-largest city, high-powered, high-spirited Houston is a hotbed of art, music and multicultural cuisine
Your essential guide to the best things to see and do in Houston. Find more travel inspiration for more amazing cities here.
To those who’ve never been, Houston has a reputation as a gargantuan city of “black gold” and cowboy boots, eternally fixed in pop-culture space lore through Apollo 13’s famed report that “… we have a problem.” But beneath the oil city’s 10-gallon hat and boot scootin’ clichés, you’ll find a spirited international metropolis that is officially the most diverse city in the U.S. Nearly one in four of H-Town’s 2.3 million inhabitants is foreign-born, with 145 different languages spoken, and an exhilarating global food scene to match.
Everything’s bigger in Texas, of course, but Houston takes that truism to an entirely new level, covering an area larger than the state of New Jersey. Within this bustling sprawl, you’ll find no fewer than seven cultural districts, as well as a vivacious nightlife scene to rival anywhere else in the country. Yes, Houston has often been overshadowed by its most famous resident, NASA. But take a closer look at “Space City” and you’ll find a vibrant Southern destination bursting with creative energy, artistic ingenuity, and gastronomic flair.
Lose yourself in the buzzy streets of Downtown Houston
These boots are made for scootin’
Thanks to the city’s long-held culture of philanthropy—and wealth produced by the energy sector—Houston is packed with top-tier museums and galleries, anchored in its marvelous Museum District. Here, you’ll find no less than 20 heavy-hitters, including the Houston Museum of Natural Science with its epic planetarium and herd of dinosaur skeletons. Other campus highlights include the gleaming, stainless-steel Contemporary Arts Museum Houston and the magnificent Museum of Fine Arts, which recently unveiled its striking new Nancy and Rich Kinder Building, complete with blockbuster Picasso collection.
The Museum of Fine Arts houses pieces by Renoir, Chagall and Degas
Meanwhile, in hipster-friendly Montrose, there’s the thought-provoking Menil Collection, an enormous assemblage of artworks and sculpture ranging from 5,000-year-old antiquities to one of the world’s most extensive hauls of Magritte paintings. You’ll find it on a tree-lined public campus that also houses the renowned Cy Twombly Gallery and serene Rothko Chapel. Lovers of the performing arts will be spoiled for choice in Houston too, with the heavyweight Theater District boasting nine entertainment venues, headlined by the world-class Houston Ballet and Houston Symphony.
Two major airports service Houston: George Bush International Airport (IAH) and William P. Hobby Airport (HOU). IAH is the main airport and handles both domestic and international travel to Houston. HOU is closer to Downtown but much smaller, focusing mostly on domestic flights. Travel Downtown in under 30 mins from both airports by cab: From IAH, ride the Metro Bus 102, which takes 50 to 90 mins. The Amtrak Sunset Limited, which runs from Louisiana to California, travels through the city three days a week.
Houston offers year-round warm weather; prepare for extreme summer heat by planning the day around the hottest times and pack sun protection. Summer months through November also bring heavy rain, storms and possibly hurricanes. June is the wettest month of the year.
The MetroRail services Downtown and Midtown. For buses and trains, use the Metro Q ticketing app or buy a fare card for cashless transactions. Cabs have a flat rate for all trips in the Downtown area. Ride-hailing apps are also readily available. Cycle the city using the e-bike rental program. Pay as you go by credit card at the kiosk or using the mobile app. When temperatures soar, use the Houston tunnel system—a six-mile subterranean network of climate-controlled pedestrian walkways that links 95 blocks. Rent a car to travel beyond the central neighborhoods and reserve your parking space in advance by downloading a mobile app.
Houston may be a large city, but it is fully accessible for those with limited mobility. All trains and buses accommodate wheelchairs. The Houston Symphony often puts on shows with sign-language interpreters and visual elements for the hearing impaired.
Houston has many LGBTQ+ friendly hotels, events, and businesses. Montrose is a longstanding LGBTQ+ neighborhood with bars and nightlife. Pride Houston takes place throughout June with pool parties, a Pride Market, and a parade, which moves through Downtown.
The Children’s Museum and the Space Center Houston are sure bets. Further afield, about 40 minutes from Downtown on Galveston Bay, the beachfront Kemah Boardwalk offers carnival rides, a Ferris wheel, and other kid-approved amusements. Sports-loving families may want to book a tour of Minute Maid Park, home of the Astros; fans can go behind the scenes with stops in the broadcasting booth, a luxury suite, the dugout, and more—and even run a lap around the field.
Xochi’s wood-roasted oysters with mole amarillo and cotija
In recent years, Houston has become a bona-fide foodie destination, with a mouthwatering gaggle of newcomers upping the city’s gourmet game. Stars of the scene include: well-heeled Bludorn, a Montrose hotspot serving elevated American comfort food with a French twist; steak MVP Guard and Grace; modern Indian game-changer Amrina; and Hugo Ortega’s award-winning Mexican restaurant Xochi.
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Houston is also home to the largest Vietnamese American population outside of California, creating a feisty Viet-Cajun fusion scene, with standout stars including Crawfish & Noodles and Cajun Kitchen. And this is Texas, so it goes without saying that there’s a juicy list of barbecue options to sink your teeth into: Try the decadent dry-rubbed brisket at The Pit Room, and perfect peppery pork ribs at Truth. For Tex-Mex, the undisputed mothership is Ninfa’s on Navigation, a beloved 50-year-old tortilleria where the modern fajita was invented.
A visit to Space Center Houston is an out-of-this-world experience
Locals contend that the first word spoken on the moon was “Houston,” so it’s only fitting that the city is home to the best interstellar museum on earth. At Space Center Houston you can nerd out over original Apollo spacesuits, lunar buggies and the world’s largest collection of space rocks—as well as an entire fleet of rockets. The new Mission Mars exhibit zooms in on NASA’s renewed attempts to reach the Red Planet (and allows you to experience a virtual Martian sunset), while those who wish to take their visit one giant leap further can book a VIP tour of NASA’s working Johnson Space Center, and even have breakfast with an astronaut.
Houston’s glittering glass and steel heart might be where the country’s biggest energy companies have their HQs, but it also boasts great pockets for off-duty barhopping, especially along buzzing Main Street. Don’t miss Dean’s Downtown, a bar in a former department store, known for its old-fashioned mixology. Or head to Captain Foxheart’s Bad News Bar & Spirit Lodge for craft cocktails and a laid-back rooftop patio.
If you’re traveling with children, the Museum District is the perfect place to base yourselves. Not only will it put you in prime position for the Children’s Museum and the Houston Museum of Natural Science, but also sprawling Hermann Park with its cute miniature train and pedal boats.
Jonathan Thompson is an award-winning travel journalist and author who splits his time between Dallas and London. He contributes to publications on both sides of the Atlantic including Travel + Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, The Sunday Times, GQ and Esquire. He also hosts the Discovery Channel TV show Adventure Cities.