By Jonathan Thompson
September 2023
A city alive with dreamers, entrepreneurs and creatives, Texas’s laid-back capital is also, officially, the Live Music Capital of the World
Your essential guide to the best things to see and do in Austin. Find more travel inspiration for more amazing cities here.
“Keep Austin Weird” is a slogan you’ll still see on T-shirts and bumper stickers all over the Lone Star State capital, but this isn’t a kooky little Hill Country town anymore. Instead, Austin has evolved into one of America’s worst-kept secrets, with a youthful, rapidly expanding population turning Weird City into a serious Southern heavyweight. They’re attracted by the legendary nightlife and live-music scene here, of course, but also by the seemingly endless outdoor options, from accessible hiking and biking trails to refreshing lakes and watering holes.
While Austin isn’t as grungy as it used to be, it has held onto its carefree, easygoing attitude which, when combined with Texas’s bankable sunshine, makes it a perennial contender to be one of the best city-break choices in the country.
Bigger in Texas: The state capitol is the nation’s largest
Built from sunset-red granite, the striking Texas State Capitol is the largest in the U.S. (yes, things really are bigger here), and a must-visit on any trip to Austin. The city also has more than its fair share of standout museums, ranging from the glitzy, interactive Bullock Texas State History Museum, which tells the story of the state in dazzling style, to intriguing smaller institutions like the Museum of the Weird and the Mexic-Arte Museum.
The pick of the bunch is The Contemporary Austin, an innovative two-site modern art museum, consisting of the streamlined Jones Center downtown and the sprawling 14-acre Laguna Gloria sculpture park, sitting pretty on Lake Austin.
Late spring and fall are the easiest times to visit, due to intense summer heat (expect highs in the mid-90s farenheight, or mid-30s celsius). Arrive by plane to Austin-Bergstrom International Airport (AUS). From the airport, opt for the usual rideshares, or the Metro Airport Flyer bus runs every 15 minutes from the airport to Downtown.
Explore Austin via the CapMetro buses or rent a MetroBike to cycle around the city. Austin is warm most of the year, so electric scooters are popular for getting around. They’re concentrated in West Campus, and along South Congress Avenue.
Austin is one of the most accessible cities in the U.S. All CapMetro buses and trains are accessible for riders with disabilities. ACL Live at the Moody Theater is fully accessible and has dedicated seating for people with disabilities and their caregivers. The Blanton Museum of Art offers tours in American sign language.
Austin is noted for its inclusivity. Pride week takes place in August, culminating in a weekend parade down Congress Avenue. The five-block Bettie Naylor Street in Downtown is named after the prominent LGBTQ+ rights activist.
The sizzling passion Texans have for barbecue is well documented, and whether you’re a dedicated meathead or merely brisket-curious, there’s something here for you. Heavyweights Franklin Barbecue, The County Line and La Barbecue have all been smoking-hot fixtures for years—and for very good reason. But there’s also an exciting cluster of newcomers to sink your teeth into, including award-winning Asian smokehouse Loro and mouthwatering Egyptian-Texan game changer KQ BBQ.
Another Austin culinary obsession: authentic Mexican food (which Texans call “interior Mexican” to distinguish it from Tex-Mex). Try it at top local spots like upscale Suerte or Fonda San Miguel for regional specialties. For a taste of Tex-Mex, try family-friendly Enchiladas y Mas or Mi Madre’s Restaurant, famous for its breakfast burrito.
For drinks, you’re spoilt for choice, too. Areas to target include Rainey Street, where a quaint row of Craftsman-style bungalows have been turned into hipster-friendly bars and restaurants; and East Sixth Street, home to a string of lively bars, breweries and neighborhood restaurants (don’t miss Lazarus Brewing, Whisler’s and Midnight Cowboy in particular).
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Austin is officially the Live Music Capital of the World (the city trademarked the name in 1991), with more than 250 venues of all shapes and sizes hosting regular gigs, from up-and-coming acts to global superstars. For jazz, the underground Elephant Room is hard to beat, while you can two-step at White Horse or Sagebrush, discover your new favorite act at the Continental Club or The Far Out Lounge & Stage, and go full Texan at The Little Longhorn Saloon, “the honkiest tonkiest beer joint in town.”
To be frank, finding great music venues here is like shooting fish in a barrel—and it’s even easier during Austin’s two major music festivals, SXSW (South by Southwest) in March and Austin City Limits in October, which both attract some of the biggest bands in the world.
Named for its main thoroughfare, South Congress is just across the river (and the famous “Bat Bridge”) from downtown Austin. Here, you’ll find an eclectic mix of hip artisan stores, coffee shops and boutique hotels, as well as Austin’s famously Instagram-friendly “I Love You” mural. Grab a burger from Hopdoddy, chic leather gifts from Noah Marion and rare first editions from South Congress Books before catching a gig at the iconic Continental Club.
Overnight options are plentiful here, too, including the achingly hip South Congress Hotel with its popular rooftop pool, and relaxed upscale newcomer Colton House Hotel.
Gentrification is observable in real time in East Austin, where you can find cool cocktail bars and gleaming new restaurants rubbing shoulders with decades-old cafés, grocery stores and barbershops. Dive into this hipster-friendly neighborhood’s delightfully diverse food scene—from family-run bistro Birdie’s and feisty Guyanese-Puerto Rican fusion at Canje to “high-low” counter-service spot Nixta Taqueria. For hotels, the futuristic ARRIVE Austin is a good bet, as well as comfy aparthotel Sonder at East 5th.
Jonathan Thompson is an award-winning travel journalist and author who splits his time between Dallas and London. He contributes to publications on both sides of the Atlantic including Travel + Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, The Sunday Times, GQ and Esquire. He also hosts the Discover Channel TV show Adventure Cities.