Where to stay

Most visitors choose to stay in the upscale coastal neighborhood of Miraflores thanks to its wide range of mid-to-high-end accommodations. For dining, it's also hard to beat. The most exciting restaurants here have global reputations and were integral to the city's culinary revolution, reimagining traditional ingredients and techniques for new generations. Swankier San Isidro to the north has its fair share of must-try tasting menus, as well as numerous outposts of luxury international hotel groups. By contrast Barranco, to the south of Miraflores, isn't quite as bohemian as it once was, but its ceviche joints, chilled cafes and Nikkei restaurants (serving Japanese-Peruvian fusion) show a different side to the city.

Lima Historic Center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and scattered with reminders of the city's colonial history. Visits to the graceful Plaza Mayor, Lima Cathedral and Barrio Chino (Chinatown) are not to be missed. That said, be careful when booking a room here: crime is higher than in other neighborhoods and caution is advised after dark. Attractions in San Isidro take visitors even further back into Lima's past. Standing in contrast to the district's fancy hotels and the commercial San Isidro Centro Financiero are the ruins of Peru's pre-Incan civilization at Huaca Huallamarca, a restored stepped pyramid and temple marooned amid the modern city.

Many art lovers opt for rooms in Barranco, where there are two museums of interest, the Museum of Contemporary Art and MATE (the Museo Mario Testino), dedicated to the work of Peru's famous fashion photographer and emerging Peruvian artists. The neighborhood's boutique hotels are equally stylish and design conscious. Relaxed Pueblo Libre, to the north of San Isidro, holds the Museo Larco, home to an enormous collection of pre-Columbian artefacts and some notable erotic pottery. Residential San Borja might be a little way south of the center, but those with museums high on their agenda should consider booking at least a night here to be close to the Museo de la Nación, which covers Peruvian history.