Bagnoregio is a town set high above the valley of the Tiber River. Travelers flock here to visit the adjoining hilltop village called Civita di Bagnoregio. Established by the Etruscan civilization over 2,000 years ago, this storybook village sits precariously on a volcanic pinnacle. Due to the erosion of the surrounding cliffs, the village is continually vulnerable to eternal destruction.
Civita di Bagnoregio is a pedestrian-only area and a delight to explore on foot. It’s an attraction in itself as opposed to being full of must-see sights. Approach via a footbridge to an imposing gateway, raised by the Etruscans and decorated with Romanesque features in the 1100s. Then, follow the cobblestone lanes to discover arches swathed in ivy, cozy cafés, palaces and piazzas.
The village’s spiritual heart is Piazza San Donato, dominated by San Donato Church. Watch donkey races here in July and September and reenactments of nativity scenes during the Christmas holidays. Learn about the village’s unusual geology via audiovisual displays, fossil remains and pictorials at the Geological and Landslides Museum.
Another interesting square is Piazza San Pietro, a great place to admire the centuries-old houses from the comfort of café terrace. As you walk, stop to chat with the few locals that remain and pause to gaze across the encompassing valley. Stay overnight at one of a handful of guesthouses set inside ancient palaces.
Bagnoregio itself is an urbanized town and serves mostly to accommodate visitors to the medieval village. Stroll around architecturally impressive squares such as Piazza Sant’Agostino. It is home to Chiesa Sant’Agostino, an 11th-century church decorated with frescoes attributed to Taddeo di Bartolo and Giovanni di Paolo.
Situated in the north of the province of Viterbo, Bagnoregio is less than a 2-hour drive from Rome and Siena. Parking is available at the entrance to the footbridge that leads to Civita di Bagnoregio. Combine your visit with a daytrip to nearby Lubriano, where you’ll be treated to exquisite views of Viterbo’s rolling countryside.
