Nestled on the eastern shore of the Guadalquivir River is El Arenal, an upmarket district that once served as a port from where ships sailed to the New World in the Middle Ages. It is a fascinating place, home to ancient buildings, traditional tapas bars and the city’s world-renowned bullring, mentioned in Bizet’s opera Carmen. Visit El Arenal to discover this historical neighborhood’s many charms on a self-guided sightseeing tour.
Go for a stroll along the left bank of the river and enter the 12-sided Torre del Oro, or Gold Tower, one of Seville's most photographed landmarks. Inside this 13th-century Moorish watchtower is a naval museum with maps, charts, scale models of ships and portraits of distinguished naval figures. Stand on the upper floor terraces for superb views of the neighborhood and old town.
After leaving the building, enjoy a leisurely cruise of the Guadalquivir River for a different view of the city’s sights. There is a quayside below the tower where hour-long cruises depart every 30 minutes.
When you are back on dry land, walk one block east of the tower to the Hospital de la Caridad, a working hospital that was founded in 1676. Visit its magnificent baroque church for paintings by Bartolomé Esteban Murillo and sculptures by Pedro Roldán, both 17th-century Spanish artists.
A short walk north of the hospital is the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, one of the oldest bullrings in the country. Stop by the large oval-shaped arena with its yellow and white façade and go on a guided tour which includes a visit to the bullring's museum.
During your travels around the neighborhood visit traditional tapas bars and restaurants that line many of the streets. Enjoy such tapas treats as Iberian ham, spinach and chickpeas, and in the summer, salmorejo. This is a cold tomato-based soup that's also made with bread, oil and garlic. In the evening watch a musical performance at the Maestranza Theater opera house.
To get to El Arenal from the center of Seville walk a few minutes west of the cathedral.
