Where to stay

Oaxaca's brightly painted buildings, cobbled streets, and baroque churches are among its biggest attractions. For first-time visitors, the best places to stay are around the tree-lined Zócalo, Oaxaca's historic heart, where street performers and sidewalk cafés set the scene. Nearby is the majestic Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman, from where the Calle Alcalá runs north, lined with shops, galleries, bars, and cafés. Places to stay here range from simple three-star hotels to classy boutique properties. A short walk to the east, there are also some good hotels amid the Barrio de Jalatlaco's colorful streets, some of the city's most picturesque.

Oaxaca's dining scene is now world-renowned. Many travelers come just for the city's restaurants and creative modern cooking. Most of the top spots are in Centro, with the streets around Santo Domingo Square a great place to book a room and start exploring bars, coffee shops, and restaurants. The Merced Market, just east, is also a must-visit spot. Early risers should stay nearby to wake up and shop for local produce before sampling the fried tortillas with cheese and salsa, a dish known as chilaquiles, at Fonda Florecita. Reserve a room nearer to the Reforma, the district to the north, for more local dining and superb mezcalerias, bars that serve Mexico's famous mezcal spirit.

Those interested in Mexican culture will find lots to discover in Oaxaca. The Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, dedicated to the city's history, is close to many of the most central hotels and is worth at least half a day of exploration. Booking a room in Centro also puts the pre-Hispanic art collections at the Rufino Tamayo Museum and the majestic Government Palace within an easy stroll. Places to stay in the area around El Llano park are generally a little quieter. Just out of the city, see the pre-Columbian pyramids at Monte Alban, another of Oaxaca's cultural highlights, although it's easier to visit on a day trip than stay in the area,